How to Cover Melasma With Makeup for a Natural-Looking Finish

Various Foundation Skin Swatches on an Geometric Background
Stocksy | Design by Zackary Angeline .

Mastering great makeup application is no easy feat but when you have melasma or other forms of hyperpigmentation, it can seem almost impossible. Melasma (a type of hyperpigmentation characterized by brown patches and freckle-like spots on the cheeks, forehead, chin and upper lip), can absolutely be covered up with concealer and foundation but you want to be careful about overloading on products so that you don't end up with a cakey application. Now, you're probably wondering how does one do that?

Luckily, we spoke two makeup artists on how to completely cover up melasma while making sure your base looks absolutely flawless. Read ahead for expert-approved tips.

Meet the Expert

  • Marco Antonio is makeup artist with over 25 years of experience, and is also a member of the CHANEL Makeup Artists Program.
  • Vincent Oquendo is a celebrity makeup artist and his red carpet clients include Lily Collins, Janelle Monae and Bella Hadid.

Prep Your Skin

The foundation to a flawless base is good skin prep. Antonio says it's important to prioritise your skincare routine and specifically focus on the products that include ingredients like niacinamide, vitamin C, and alpha hydroxy acids, which may help fade hyperpigmentation over time. Oh, and don't' forget to wear SPF as sun exposure can make your melasma worse.

"Start with a gentle cleanser suitable for your skin type to remove any dirt, oil, or makeup residue, 1-2 times a week, consider incorporating a mild exfoliant to remove off dead skin cells," Antonio says. "Apply a toner to balance the skin's pH levels, after that add a moisturizer suitable for your skin type. Then apply your SPF and wait for it to absorb on to the skin before the next steps." 

Oquendo recommends keeping your skincare steps to a minimum so that your makeup can really adhere to your skin. "Sometimes when we apply too many layers of skincare it can cause the makeup to separate and can make it look cakey. Just be more conservative with how much skincare you apply and blot off any excess with a tissue before you start your makeup application."

Use a Color Corrector

"Color correctors can help neutralize the discoloration. Peach or orange tone color correctors are often used to counteract brown patches. Use a small amount of colour corrector on the brown spots," Antonis says. "You can apply it directly onto the spots or use a clean brush or your fingertips for precise application. Blend the edges of the colour corrector gently to avoid harsh lines."

We recommend using Live Tinted's Huestick Color Corrector ($24) to help neutralize hyperpigmentation and cover up dark circles.

Byrdie Tip

Makeup artist Jaleesa Jaikaran recommends first applying a full-coverage concealer that matches the shade of your melasma to any patches on your skin. Then, dab your usual foundation or concealer over it.

Layer Your Concealer and Foundation

Antonio says its best to layer your concealer and foundation to achieve the desired level of coverage without it looking too heavy, especially in the areas you would like to cover. "Use a makeup sponge or brush to apply your concealer and foundation evenly. A sponge or your fingers can provide a more natural finish," he explains. "Pat the products onto the skin gently rather than rubbing, so you don't remove the color correcting. Set your makeup with a translucent setting powder to prevent it from smudging or transferring throughout the day."

For concealer, Oquendo recommends Tula Skincare's Radiant Skin Brightening Serum Concealer ($32).

As for foundation, Antonio loves the CHANEL N°1 De CHANEL Revitalising Foundation ($75). "It gives a luminous finish and it has a very buildable coverage," he adds.

Article Sources
Byrdie takes every opportunity to use high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial guidelines to learn more about how we keep our content accurate, reliable and trustworthy.
  1. Ogbechie-Godec, O.A., Elbuluk, N. Melasma: an Up-to-Date Comprehensive ReviewDermatol Ther (Heidelb) 7, 305–318 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-017-0194-1

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