Is Eye Cream Really Necessary? Dermatologists Reveal the Truth

No one debates the importance of sunscreen and moisturizer is a must, but is eye cream really necessary? After all, eye creams tend to be expensive, and it's not always clear what they can offer that a typical moisturizer can't. To settle the debate on the necessity of eye cream, we tapped two board-certified dermatologists to answer all our eye-cream-related questions. From the difference between eye skin and the rest of the face to what an eye cream can treat, get their answers below.

What Is Eye Cream?

Simply put, "an eye cream refers to a cream that is specifically formulated to be applied to the skin around the eyelid and target undereye concerns," explains dermatologist Dr. Marisa Garshick. While some of the ingredients in face cream may be similar, she adds, "they may be present in a lower concentration [in eye cream] to account for the delicate skin around the eyelid."

Eye Skin vs. Face Skin

While it's logical to think that skin is skin and it's all the same, the truth is, different areas of your face and body are covered with different types of, well, skin. "It's important to remember that the eyelid skin is thin and delicate and can also show signs of aging sooner than other areas of the face," says Garshick. To stave off wrinkles and crepiness, it's key to keep the skin around the eyelid moisturized and prevent dryness.

And because the eye area– both the lid and the under eye– is more delicate than the rest of your face, some moisturizers are better kept at a safe distance. Garshick names retinol and exfoliating acids as ingredients in face creams that can appear in concentrations that can be too harsh for the eye area. (But, when formulated specifically for the sensitive eye area, these ingredients can be more tolerable.)

Is Eye Cream Necessary?

"Eye cream is not necessary," says Dr. Garshick. "But individuals who have concerns related to the skin around the eye, including dark circles, puffiness, Crow's feet, fine lines, wrinkles, and volume loss, eye creams may be a helpful addition to improve the appearance of the undereye skin." "In some cases simply applying moisturizer to the skin around the eye may be sufficient, but if someone is dealing with specific concerns then incorporating ingredients such as retinol, peptides, and antioxidants may be helpful." 

Can You Use Face Cream Under Your Eyes?

While you could just slather a heavy face cream under your eyes, you risk irritating the delicate under-eye area. Still, it's important to keep both skin types protected, and there are some face products that can (and should) be used under the eyes. Sunscreen is an example of a face cream that should be used around the eye. Dermatologist Dr. Azadeh Shirazi says that while some face creams may be tolerated by eyelid skin, it's wise to do a patch test, "trying a small amount applied to a small area daily for three to five days and monitoring for any unwanted reactions."

Can You Use Eye Cream All Over Your Face?

The short answer is yes, you can use an eye cream all over your face. After all, eye cream is essentially a moisturizer. However, as mentioned above, eye creams are formulated differently and specifically for the delicate eye area. Typically, the rest of the face would benefit from something more potent. Eye creams also tend to be much pricier and in smaller jars, so slathering one all over your face would be a bit wasteful (and more expensive). If you're in a pinch and don't have your face moisturizer with you, though, your eye cream can make a fine substitute.

Who Are Eye Creams For?

Garshick says that eye creams "may not be necessary for everyone," but she recommends it for those "who are concerned about their undereye area or who are noticing changes in the undereye area."

Can an Eye Cream Treat Dark Circles?

If dark circles are your main concern, Garshick recommends using an eye cream formula with niacinamide to help to brighten the undereye area. She also suggests antioxidants such as vitamin C, which brighten and help protect against free radical damage.  Pond's Rejuveness Eye Cream and Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Brightening Eye Cream are both on her list of favorites.

"Veins around the eyes can result in venous pooling of blood, creating a dark hue under the eyes that resemble dark circles. Ingredients such as arnica and vitamin K can help in reducing their appearance and their effects," adds Dr. Shirazi. Additionally, she warns that undereye bags and puffiness can cast a shadow—creating the illusion of dark circles. If you're experiencing swelling, it's best to target this first, rather than dark circles.

There are also some dark circles that exist because of your bone structure and the way that shadows hit your face– rather than actual darkness in the skin. So, an eye cream that has a slight tint or light-reflecting properties can make all the difference. We like the First Aid Beauty Eye Duty Niacinamide Brightening Cream, which has peach micro-pearls to counteract darkness and also packs niacinamide for a two-pronged brightening approach.

Can an Eye Cream Treat Wrinkles?

"Those with mature skin would benefit from eye creams with retinol to help boost collagen production and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles," says Garshick. She recommends SkinBetter Interfuse Intensive Treatment or Roc Retinol Correxion Eye Cream. Additionally, she says peptides and growth factors can help boost collagen production and improve the skin's firmness and overall texture. You can find them in her pick: Neocutis Lumiere Eye Cream.

Can an Eye Cream Treat Under-Eye Bags?

Both Garshick and Shirazi both recommend caffeine-based eye creams and cold compresses to depuff the undereye area. If you don't have a spa's worth of chilled cucumbers on deck, Garshick suggests an eye cream with a metal applicator, which can create a cooling effect. Her picks: Colorescience Total Eye 3 in 1 Repair or Garnier Anti-Puff Eye Roller.

When Not to Use an Eye Cream

If you are experiencing volume loss due to aging, an eye cream may not be the most effective option. "It's important to set expectations for what an under-eye cream can achieve, as there are instances where botox, lasers, fillers, radiofrequency devices, microneedling, PRP, or surgical procedures may be needed,” Garshick says.

Shirazi explains that those with sensitive skin are typically intolerant of many ingredients that address dark circles, and says that eye creams can sometimes create more problems in the eye area. “Allergic reactions and irritation can cause thickening and darkening of the eyelid skin," she says. “Simply hydrating the skin improves the appearance around the eyelids.” She and Garshick both suggest opting for Vaseline to create a barrier and seal in any moisture. Garshick also recommends using hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which help draw moisture into the skin.

The Takeaway

Eye cream is an effective addition to your skincare routine, especially if you have specific under-eye issues that you're hoping to correct. But, if you're simply looking to hydrate the eye area and don't suffer from dark circles, puffiness, or wrinkles, you can absolutely use your go-to moisturizer. However, just be cautious not to apply possible irritants like retinol or exfoliating acids. On the other end of the spectrum, you can't expect an eye cream to treat everything. Some concerns may not be reversible, like volume loss, in which case an eye cream– or a face cream for that matter– just won't be enough.